Prague: The City of a Hundred Spires

Prague survived the 20th century's wars almost untouched, leaving a medieval core so perfectly preserved it feels like a film set. Gothic spires pierce the sky, Baroque palaces line cobblestone streets, and Art Nouveau facades shimmer with gold leaf. But Prague is no museum—it's a living city with a dark humor, world-class beer, and a creative spirit forged through centuries of occupation.

Understanding Prague

The Districts

Staré Město (Old Town) - Medieval heart, Astronomical Clock, tourist epicenter

Josefov - Historic Jewish Quarter within Old Town

Malá Strana (Lesser Town) - Baroque beauty beneath the castle

Hradčany - Castle district, palaces, panoramic views

Nové Město (New Town) - Wenceslas Square, Art Nouveau, actually 14th century

Vinohrady - Local neighborhood, wine bars, hipster cafés

Žižkov - Gritty, authentic, legendary pubs

Must-See Landmarks

The Classics

Prague Castle - World's largest ancient castle complex. St. Vitus Cathedral, Golden Lane, royal gardens. Free grounds; paid interiors. Go early or late to avoid crowds.

Charles Bridge - Gothic masterpiece lined with Baroque statues. Sunrise walks are magical (and less mobbed). Cross multiple times—each lighting is different.

Old Town Square - Astronomical Clock strikes hourly, but the real show is the square itself: Gothic Týn Church, Baroque St. Nicholas, pastel merchants' houses.

St. Vitus Cathedral - Gothic magnificence within the castle. Mucha's Art Nouveau window is stunning. Climb the tower for city views.

Hidden Gems

Vyšehrad - Hilltop fortress with fewer tourists, cemetery of Czech greats (Dvořák, Mucha), Cubist houses nearby.

Wallenstein Garden - Free Baroque garden with peacocks, hidden behind Malá Strana palace. Magical in evening light.

Strahov Monastery Library - Two of Europe's most beautiful Baroque libraries. Worth the entry fee.

Petřín Hill - Funicular ride, miniature Eiffel Tower, rose gardens, city panoramas without castle crowds.

Letná Park - Beer garden with best free view of the city. Where Stalin's statue once stood, now a giant metronome.

Jewish Prague

Josefov

Prague's Jewish Quarter survived WWII because the Nazis planned a "Museum of an Extinct Race." Instead, it stands as one of Europe's best-preserved Jewish heritage sites.

Old Jewish Cemetery - 12,000 tombstones layered over 12 layers of graves. Haunting and beautiful.

Old-New Synagogue - Europe's oldest active synagogue (1270). Legend says the Golem of Prague rests in its attic.

Spanish Synagogue - Moorish Revival interior of dazzling beauty. Excellent exhibition on modern Jewish history.

Jewish Museum - Combined ticket covers all synagogues and cemetery. Book ahead in summer.

Czech Beer Culture

Prague is beer paradise. Czech pilsner is the original lager, and locals drink more beer per capita than anyone on Earth.

Historic Beer Halls

U Zlatého Tygra - Legendary pub, Václav Havel brought Bill Clinton here. Crowded, local, perfect Pilsner Urquell.

U Fleků - Brewing since 1499. Dark lager, tourist-heavy but atmospheric. Skip the overpriced shots.

Lokál - Modern pubs serving perfectly tapped Pilsner. Multiple locations, reliable quality.

Pivovarský Dům - Brewpub with unusual beers: coffee, banana, champagne. Worth exploring.

Craft Scene

Craft Beer Prague - Curated taps from Czech microbreweries

Beer Geek - Bottle shop and bar, international selection

Vinohradský Pivovar - Neighborhood brewery in trendy Vinohrady

Beer Tips

• "Pivo, prosím" (beer, please) will get you a half-liter
• Fresh tank beer (tankové pivo) is unpasteurized, exceptional
• Tip by rounding up
• Drinking in parks is legal

Food

Traditional Czech

• Svíčková - Beef in cream sauce with dumplings and cranberries. National dish.
• Vepřo-knedlo-zelo - Pork, dumplings, sauerkraut. Hearty and classic.
• Trdelník - Chimney cake, actually Hungarian, but omnipresent. Skip it.
• Smažený sýr - Fried cheese. Drunk food perfection.
• Kulajda - Creamy mushroom soup with dill and poached egg.

Where to Eat

Café Savoy - Gorgeous Neo-Renaissance interior, upscale Czech cuisine

Lokál - Traditional food done right, reasonable prices

Kantýna - Modern Czech, farm-to-table approach

Eska - Contemporary fermentation-focused, design-forward

Sisters Bistro - Open-faced sandwich specialist, Czech soul food

Markets

Farmers Market Náplavka - Saturday riverside market, local produce, street food

Manifesto Market - Shipping container food hall, Florenc or Smíchov locations

Art & Culture

Museums

National Gallery - Multiple venues. Veletržní Palác has excellent modern art.

DOX Centre - Contemporary art in industrial space, thought-provoking exhibitions.

Mucha Museum - Art Nouveau master, though his Slav Epic at Veletržní Palác is more impressive.

Franz Kafka Museum - Surreal exhibition on Prague's most famous writer. Appropriately disorienting.

Music

Classical music is everywhere, but quality varies. Book through venues directly, not street sellers.

Rudolfinum - Czech Philharmonic home, excellent acoustics

Municipal House - Art Nouveau splendor, Smetana Hall

National Theatre - Opera, ballet, drama in stunning 19th-century theater

Day Trips

Kutná Hora (1 hour) - Medieval silver mining town, famous bone church (Sedlec Ossuary), UNESCO-listed.

Český Krumlov (3 hours) - Fairytale town, massive castle, rafting on Vltava. Can be done as day trip but worth overnight.

Karlštejn Castle (45 min) - Gothic fortress, crown jewels once stored here. Touristy but impressive.

Terezín (1 hour) - WWII concentration camp and Jewish ghetto. Moving and essential history.

Practical Tips

Getting Around

• Walking is best in central Prague—compact and gorgeous
• Metro/tram for longer distances (buy passes, validate tickets)
• Uber and Bolt work well
• Taxis have bad reputation—use apps

Money

• Czech Koruna (CZK), not Euro
• Cards widely accepted in center, cash useful in traditional pubs
• ~25 CZK = 1 EUR (roughly)
• Prague is cheaper than Western Europe, especially beer and food

Avoiding Tourist Traps

• Skip restaurants on Old Town Square (overpriced, mediocre)
• Ignore touts selling tours and concerts
• Exchange offices are ripoffs—use ATMs
• Trdelník is not traditional Czech (but not terrible)

Best Times

• Spring (April-May): Pleasant, gardens blooming, manageable crowds
• Summer (June-August): Warmest, longest days, most crowded
• Fall (September-October): Lovely weather, fewer tourists
• Winter (November-March): Cold but atmospheric, Christmas markets magical
• Easter & Christmas: Beautiful but packed

Suggested Itineraries

3 Days: Essential Prague

Day 1: Old Town Square, Jewish Quarter, Charles Bridge at sunset, Malá Strana dinner

Day 2: Prague Castle morning, Petřín Hill, Letná beer garden, Žižkov evening

Day 3: Vyšehrad, Vinohrady exploration, National Gallery, farewell pub crawl

5 Days: Deeper Prague

Add: Day trip to Kutná Hora, explore Nové Město Art Nouveau, Stromovka park, DOX contemporary art

Long Weekend

Day 1: Castle and Malá Strana

Day 2: Old Town, Jewish Quarter, Charles Bridge

Day 3: Vyšehrad, neighborhoods, departure beer

Final Thoughts

Prague's beauty is undeniable, but don't mistake prettiness for superficiality. This is Kafka's city, Havel's city, a place that survived Habsburgs, Nazis, and Soviets with its spirit intact. Escape the Old Town crowds, find a pub where locals outnumber tourists, watch the light turn golden on the Vltava, and Prague reveals why artists and dreamers have always been drawn here.

Ready to explore Prague? Our Central Europe specialists can help you discover the city beyond the tourist trail.